In La Paz, Bolivia, Claire Garner’s appearance is that of a classic American tourist. Yet, she is a resident. The Spanish-speaking town has a population of 800,000 and is located at an altitude of 11,811 feet. It’s all a 180-degree turn from the lifestyle she was used to in Bridgeport, West Virginia. But it’s a life she felt she was called for.

 

Since June, Garner – a 2008 graduate of Bridgeport High School – has been teaching English as a Second Language at Bolivia’s Instituto Exclusivo. Her students are of all ages. To date, she has taught those from age 7 through 65 who - for various reasons - seek to improve their English.

 

“Younger students - children and teens - are registered for classes to help improve their marks in school or because the family has moved to another country, but still want their child to be able practice speaking English with someone who can help them improve,” Garner explained.  “Adult students normally want to improve their business English skills for work, but sometimes they just want to learn or practice English because they find it fun and/or increasingly necessary to travel or interact with foreigners.”

 

Regardless of their personal initiatives, Garner describes her current situation as an incredible experience.

 

“The most rewarding part of teaching, anywhere in the world, I think, is seeing progress in your students,” she said.  “Academic progress is an obvious example, but I mean other types of progress, too: emotional, behavioral, social.  It's building trust and a connection with your student that encourages them and seeing them respond with success to that connection.”

 

As for her new life in Bolivia?

 

“I have so far loved my time spent in La Paz and I wouldn't exchange any bit of it,” she said. “The whole of this experience is incredibly educational for me, having no previous long-term traveling experience.”

 

She admits it has been quite an adjustment, for various reasons.

 

“My new surroundings are quite different from what I'm used to experiencing back in West Virginia.  For one, moving from my hometown of about 8,000 people to La Paz, which has a bit under 900,000 people living in and among the crags of the Andes mountain range,” she said. “Also, being at around 12,000 feet (rounded up from 11,975 feet) above sea level makes exercising regularly or having a normal sleeping pattern a new challenge, at times - not to mention, West Virginia tends to be engulfed in lush vegetation, whereas La Paz is too high for that much vegetation to grow, though the fruits and vegetables that grow in Bolivia and are sold here are top notch!”

 

Because of her “tourist appearance,” negotiating with Bolivian locals is tricky.

 

“They are still convinced they should squeeze every last centavo out of my change purse due to my appearance, so shopping can be a bit rough at times,” she said.

 

In spite of the city’s considerable population and size, transportation is very efficient. Motorists are very precise – and considerate, Garner said.

 

“Traffic is almost always bumper-to-bumper, but it is also always moving.  Drivers here let one another move in and out of traffic with incredible precision and dexterity.  Horns are used practically instead of just out of emotion.  (Plus, the public transportation here is awesome.  It's incredibly affordable and the driver will let you off anywhere along his or her route, so long as you ask before he or she passes it!”

 

She has also taken advantage of the Red Line Teleferico, which circles La Paz, and she often hops on a bicycle to make her trek around town. 

 

Teaching keeps Garner very busy with classes scheduled between 8 a.m. and 9 p.m. She also serves on a Curriculum Development team for the school’s English department and hosts an English Conversation Night each Wednesday.

 

On weekends, though, she does get to pursue travel and adventure.

 

“I recently took a week off to participate in a ‘ride and river tour through my boyfriend's biking company - Gravity,” said. “And I enjoy traveling in and around La Paz to visit gardens and places like ‘La Muela Del Diablo’ and Valle de la Luna (Moon Valley) to have great BBQ and go ATV riding or take a tour of the area.” 

 

More extensive trips have included Lake Titicaca, Puno (Peru), Cochabamba, and Illimani - a mountain that people can climb.

 

“Of course, I hope to eventually bike down the North Yungas Road - more commonly known as ‘The Death Road’ with Gravity, see the monkeys at La Senda Verde and go zip-lining,” she said. “I also want to see some of the other major cities, like Sucre, and take a tour of the salt flats before I leave this beautiful country.”

 

Although she feels life in La Paz fits her like a glove, it’s not something she always knew was in her future. An avid high school swimmer, Garner went to pursue Aquatics Therapy at West Virginia University. She eventually shifted gears toward teaching, specializing in English. That program provided her first opportunity for traveling and teaching abroad – in France.

Following graduation from WVU, Garner taught at Taylor County Middle School. It was during that time she took an online TEFL/ TESOL (Teaching English as a Foreign Language/ Teaching English to Speakers of Other Languages) course to become certified to teach English as a Second Language (ESL). 

 

She ultimately made the decision to teach abroad. It was an intimidating one, she said.

 

Fear of the unknown wasn't a good enough reason for me to stay, though,” she said. “…I didn't want to lose sight of the opportunity I could take in this moment to do something different to use as a salve for my restless soul.”

 

Garner is the daughter of Rod and Monica Hess Garner of Bridgeport. 

 

Read her blog posts at claireinlapaz.blogspot.com